CHEAP EATS - Where 10 bucks makes a mighty meal

By Andrew Rimas, photographs by Alan Gwizdowski | March 19 - April 1, 2008

The Venezuelan arepa is, like nearly every other successful culinary transplant, a variation on the sandwich. It's a grilled cornflour pocket stuffed with either roast beef au jus, chicken and avocado, slow-cooked pork leg or any other gourmet filling concocted in the kitchen of the South End's Orinoco restaurant. Nuevo-Latino is what the media calls this trendy, cheery eatery, and it's overrun by nuevo-riche South Enders. But you don't need to pay attention to the open kitchen, the whimsical color scheme, the buzzing reviews and imminent arrival of a second location in Brookline Village. All you need to know is that arepas cost $4.75 - $5.95, and you must buy one. Try the guayanesa, which over flows with a type of Venezuelan cheese reminiscent of fresh mozzarella, except creamier. Nor is it a hardship to sample the empanadas jammed with stewed beef shreds or wild mushrooms, manchego cheese and salsa ($7.95).

477 Shawmut Ave.,
Boston (617-369-7075)

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